Network Distribution Panel

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I'm in the process of having a new house built, and the low voltage guys were showing me a $500 package that included metal enclosure and in the enclosure they had RJ45 connectors coming from jacks around the house. The RJ45 in the panel could the be plugged into a router to be used as a network jack, or into a different box so that the jack in the house could used a phone jack. My best guess is that this box was a glorified punchdown box, where the landline phone wires came into it, and the 8 jacks on this box were utilzing the correct pins on the RJ45 so that the jacks in the house could be used for phones.

I really liked the idea, but if I can figure out what this "box" is called I can probably do this myself much cheaper.

Does anyone know what this "box" is called that is essentially a RJ45 punchdown for PSTN?
 
When we pull wire, we have the electrician pull at least 2 Cat5e cables to each box and we punch both down to an RJ-45 jack. We use red jacks for network and white jacks for phones. In the wiring closet, we punch down on two patch panels, one for the red and one for white. Everything is wired EIA/TIA 568B. This way, if you have an analog phone system, you just plug into the appropriate patch panel. If you need to use a phone jack for ethernet, just use it. It all works.
 
Jeremy, they might be trying to sell you on a Leviton (Pass & Seymour, and Hubbell make similar versions) "connected home" wiring cabinet. Parts purchased yourself could be done cheaper (assuming you have the punch down tool and know-how). Check out Home Depot for the Leviton parts and pricing. Electrical supply houses as well.

Everything is wired EIA/TIA 568B. This way, if you have an analog phone system, you just plug into the appropriate patch panel.
That is correct. The first three pairs of copper pins (center on out) on an RJ45 terminated in the 568B pattern are the same as a USOC, 6 conductor, RJ11.
 
They also make tiny little network switches that will fit in these cabinets. Just be sure to run an electrical outlet to the cabinet as well so you can plug the switches in. Then all you have to do is run one wire from your router to the cabinet and your whole house lights up. Our house uses a cabinet like this for networking and television. We don't have any old fashioned Ma Bell phone lines, but these jacks can do that, too, if you have the need. :D
 
Like a lot of other things in life, if you are unfamiliar with the technology, or installation "best practices", then you are sometimes better off paying the money and letting a "professional" do it properly for you. The real key, is knowing whether the installer really knows what he/she is talking about, and can actually deliver a professional job.

In addition to the CAT5 (minimum, or CAT6) cables required for telephone and network runs, I'd probably want to route all my internal TV coax cables into the distribution box as well, then run two additional coaxes from the distribution box over to the cable companies service entrance. Running a pair of coaxes should handle most satellite needs if you decide to go that way instead of Cable, or if you should decide to have the cable company supply you with telephone service. In this instance you will need to have a coax run to their VoIP cable modem, along with a telephone line (another CAT5) back to your distribution box.

Similarly, there should be two CAT5s from the distribution box back to the external Telco service box (NID). With two CAT5s the Telco could feed phone service on one cable, and DSL on the second (with a DSL splitter in their box), or just naked DSL.

It's definitely better to think ahead of your future needs and wire accordingly, as once the drywall is installed you are bound to be wishing for "one more cable run" somewhere!

Good luck...
 
Just a quick note: you can plug a RJ11 phone jack into a RJ45 socket. It fits perfectly. In my VoIP lab, all the patch panels and cable runs are EI568B wiring. We can use the cable trunks for phones, T1 lines, Ethernet and even Token Ring (why?). It all works fine.
 
A few of thoughts:
  1. If your cable runs are long and/or with a lot of branches you might want to consider using RG11 instead of RG6. The preferred method of wiring is to home run all cable runs. It is cheap to do while the the rough framing is uncovered with dry wall.
  2. Most CAT 5 will test at 1GB. The cost difference between CAT 5 and CAT 6e is not significant. The preference is to go with CAT 6e.
  3. If you plan to run PIAF behind a router, i.e. like pfsense, you might want to consider running a line just for PAIF and another line for all other traffic, i.e two private networks. You can control everything from pfsense. With pfsense you can have multiple NIC's. We use the cheap Dell servers, less than $300, just make sure you know how many NIC's you need and then check the Mother Board to make sure there are the right kind of slots.
  4. I would suggest that you run three CAT lines to each makeup box. This will give you maximum flexibility. If you are going to be using 2" x 4" makeup boxes make sure you use the extra deep one. It would be better to use 4" X 4" boxes, deep, this will give you plenty of room for the wires.
  5. A well thought out plan will minimize the frustration in the long run.
  6. All your wiring and tools are readily available on the internet.
 
I would second getting someone that does this for a living to do the basic wiring installation. Home Depot and Lowe's carry all of this stuff now. Ours was a spec house so it already was in place except equipment rack which is on other side of the room from distribution panel. Wiring from there to panel is under the house. We had that done after we moved in. Draw yourself a map of where you plan to put all of your equipment and share this with the installer. It will save you lots of headaches. We have phone, network, and 2 video connections terminated to 40 outlets in the house (both sides of all rooms and three sides in larger rooms). Be sure to require IN WRITING that all wiring be labeled at both ends! Phone and network jacks can be used interchangeably with our wiring plan which is great since we have no POTS crapola. All of it feeds back to this patch panel in the laundry room together with a small equipment rack. The rack houses the phone system (still running on Everex gPC units) and NAS devices for Sonos music system. Cable modem is also on the equipment rack, and we've run 2 network, 1 phone, and 2 video cables from rack to the distribution panel. In that way, there's support for two TV sources, DSL, and LAN. All the speakers throughout the house terminate in a cabinet in another room which houses all of the Sonos boxes. Need ventilation there, too. Servers and network printers/scanners/fax machines are scattered around the different floors of the house in various rooms and can be accessed from anywhere obviously. We also have downstream switches in many rooms: Sonos cabinet, server sites, offices, entertainment room, and equipment rack. If an equipment rack is going in a small room, be sure you have adequate ventilation and preferably A/C for summer months. From the patch panel in the laundry room, you can do just about anything including video distribution from any device in any room in the house which is the reason for 2 video connections at each outlet. The smoke, fire, and burglar alarm system also terminates at the bottom of this panel but you can't see it in the picture. Panel can be locked which is good if you have teenagers. Good luck!

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How much, or how little, cabling you end up pulling into your distribution cabinet will ultimately be up to you. You can see where this "simple concept" can quickly escalate into a full-blown equipment room. ;)

Not even mentioned so far, but what about video surveillance cameras for the front and rear doors, remote door phone, or door entry systems. How much technology will the "other half" approve?? What about laser beams from the moon?

But the important thing is to think about all the possible scenarios, and then decide whether any or all apply to you. The style of house will also play a factor, whether it's a 2-storey, rancher with basement, etc. Will there be access from the basement/crawl space or attic so that if you need additional cable runs in the future that you still have some sort of access? You might consider runjing a 1-inch conduit from attic to basement in order to run 'forgotten' cabling.

In the meantime, do more reading to become better enlightened to make an informed decision. I would suggest Googling "structured wiring" for starts, and take it from there.

Cheers...
 
Good advice! Same applies in commercial space. Whenever there was remodeling in old courthouses, we always included an order to install a 3" conduit on each side of the building from the basement to the attic. It saved millions of dollars over the years as network technology morphed over and over again. :idea:
 
Wow ... a Home Director. Cool.

I thought I was the only person on Earth that bought an IBM Home Director. Different cabinet though. I've been thinking about rippin' it out and putting a larger enclosure as mine is a little cramped. Have you been satisfied with your system Ward? Can't say I was too thrilled with my Video Distribution Network but the rest was ok.

Dallas
 
Under the stairs

Thanks for all the advice guys, and I'm sure that others will find it useful. I prefer using underneath my stairs for my wiring, with my own homemade 2x4 construction 19" racks.

I've found that some peg board and zip ties work nicely for holding all sorts of appliances in an organized fashion. All 20+ network jacks in my current house and 6 phone jacks are wired into a patch panel.

I was really hoping to figure out what that piece of equipment I was looking for was called, but maybe it doesn't really matter since the center pins are pairs and will work for telephone. I don't know why I never looked at the pin out for 568B that closely before.

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Here is a link to the item I referenced previously. It sounds like that is what you are asking for.
 
I thought I was the only person on Earth that bought an IBM Home Director.
Dallas

Actually, I think our installer bought the boxes on closeout after they were discontinued. Seems to me he said he paid about $10 each for them. :rolleyes:
 

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